The Fortress Revisited

I finally got back up to The Fortress, ACT, with Widewetandslippery and Wallwombat (of Chockstone fame) in early March, 2008. We did a more extensive inspection of the crag this time and decided on doing Blood On His Lips (16) first - nice easy crack and great as a warm up.

Blood On His Lips (16), The Fortress, ACT

The climbing is easy up the crack, but there is a small slab move at the top which messes with your head if you haven't had to smear for a while.

Widewetandslippery on the lead.

We then headed back up to the main outcrop of rocks and had a go at Flying Arkwright (16). This is such an interesting looking crack that you just have to do it. Remember this was first climbed as a solo effort in 1975. It's changed a bit since then - at the bottom of the climb the bushfires have sooted up the overhanging wall at the start - you have to lay back with your feet against the wall and it's as slippery as featureless marble. Widewetandslippery proved it was doable on the lead. It's got a great little off-width at the top to exit.

WW&S leading on Flying Arkwright. Me on belay, contemplating how my new Fantini ethics will help get me up the route.

We abseiled off the top of the rock, as the guide-book-suggested grovel down the exit crack didn't appeal to us. The belay bolts have been chopped, but there is a big boulder that you can sling a rope around - just don't let it get caught around the bottom of the boulder.

We next sized up Sentry Duty (15). Sentry Duty starts as a double crack, leading to a sentry box half-way up the climb.

WW&S doubling his on-lead crack fun on Sentry Duty

The sentry box provides a good resting ledge before attacking the crux. The granite changes at the top into real hand ripping stuff - jambing is painful! WW&S was smart and taped up - I had to hang in the crack for a bit to unstick the biner on the end of a cam - it had turned sideways in the crack and did not want to move - my feet were turned side on in the crack and stuck fine - the hands were not so fine - I had to grab the rope for relief before the biner would play nice. Great exposed move out of the sentry box though.

Nick having painful jambing fun on Sentry Duty - sentry box beneath

The Fortress is a great spot for an easy mornings climbing. There is a bolt ladder (3 bolts) on the north western side of the big mushroom rock on top - the bolts looked good and will have to go at a later date!